(ARA) – The economy is tanking, grocery bills are climbing and food safety scares are on the rise. For the 43 million Americans planning a vegetable garden this spring, growing your own is a matter of dollars and sense.

Food gardening will jump 19 percent this year over last year, according to a new survey by the National Gardening Association (NGA). Homeowners with shrinking household budgets are looking for help in their own backyards. Can planting a veggie patch really save you money? Government agencies and gardening organizations say yes.

Every $100 spent on vegetable gardening yields $1,000 to $1,700 worth of produce, the U.S. Department of Agriculture estimates. That’s a serious hedge against skyrocketing food prices, expected to jump another 5 percent this year.

You’ll get a half-pound of edibles from every square foot of ground devoted to backyard crops, NGA experts say. Even a modest garden (15 by 15 feet) can produce more than 100 pounds of garden-fresh tomatoes, salad greens, vegetables and herbs. Better flavor and bragging rights come with the harvest.

Planting a vegetable plot and keeping it productive isn’t that hard if you start small, keep the basics in mind and plant reliable varieties. Take it step by step:

Lead with Location — A sunny, well-drained spot close to a water spigot is ideal. Leafy greens tolerate some shade, but other crops want eight hours of sun daily.

Suitable Soil — Adding organic material is the key to an easy-care garden. It loosens stiff soil, helps retain moisture and nourishes important soil organisms. Good “ingredients” include manure, humus and chopped-up leaves. Spread a 4-inch layer of amendments on your plot and till into the top 9 to 12 inches.

Fertilize Faithfully — All edible plants remove some nutrients from the soil, and can quickly exhaust the soil without the help of a fertilizer. Always follow the rates given on the label when deciding how much to use.

Water Wisely — One inch of water weekly is adequate for most vegetables. Soaker hoses or drip systems deliver water efficiently and keep foliage dry, fending off leaf diseases.

Patrol for Pests — Monitor insect damage but try to keep your crops pesticide-free. Hand-pick pests or dislodge them with a jet of water, then let natural predators do the rest. If you must spray, do it late in the day when beneficial insects are less active.

Pick the Right Plants — Flower gardeners gravitate to the newest, showiest varieties, but smart food gardeners appreciate the tried-and-true. Bonnie Plants, available coast to coast, are time-tested varieties selected to suit regional conditions. For best results you’ll need to choose veggie and herb varieties suitable to your geographical location. Because Bonnie’s varieties are distributed regionally, you will automatically have suitable varieties available to you at retail locations in your area.

Look for Bonnie Plants in eco-friendly biodegradable pots that not only keep tons of plastic pots from ending up in landfills, but also reduce transplant shock. Just tear off the bottom, set the pot in the ground and water.

If you’re ready to try your hand at creating your own backyard grocery garden, here are 10 easy crops to plant:

Basil — Perfect with tomatoes. Choose sweet basil or the compact ”Spicy Globe.”

Beans — Bush beans like “Bush Blue Lake’”are easier to pick, but tall “pole” beans have higher yields.

Bell peppers — Harvest green or red, when vitamin levels are higher. Try “Bonnie Bell” or the new, hot bell pepper “Mexibell.”

Chard — This leafy green tolerates cool temperatures well. Varieties like “Bright Lights” have brilliantly colored stems.

Cucumber — Plant after the weather warms. Choose the mild Japanese cucumber or the old favorite “Burpless Bush Hybrid.”

Eggplant — A much-loved favorite, eggplant thrives in hot weather.  Try “Black Beauty” or the white-skinned  “Cloud Nine.”

Lettuce — Go for easy “leaf” lettuces like “Buttercrunch,” “Red Sails,” or Romaine.

Parsley — Pick curly types or flat Italian parsley. This herb is rich in vitamins and a breath-sweetener, too.

Summer squash — Squash are very productive plants and easy to grow. Try zucchini “Black Beauty” or yellow crook-necked squash.

Tomatoes — These crimson favorites are the most popular backyard vegetable. Choose disease-resistant “Better Boy,” “Bonnie Original” or the extra-easy cherry tomato “Sweet 100.”

For gardening tips and more herb and vegetable varieties, visit www.bonnieplants.com.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

(ARA) – If you invest a bit of time now, you can ensure a bountiful harvest and a beautiful landscape to make this your best gardening season yet. Preparing a strong spring foundation means new plantings are better able to survive the heat, drought and pest attacks of summer.

“Start your garden off right by adding several inches of organic matter to the top 6- to 12- inches of soil,” recommends horticulture expert and author Melinda Myers. “Peat moss, compost, aged manure and other organic materials improve drainage in heavy clay soil and increase the water holding capacity of sandy soils.”

Incorporate a slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer like Milorganite before planting flowers and vegetables. “I like Milorganite’s low nitrogen formulation” says Myers. “This makes it goof proof so you will not harm young tender plants no matter what your gardening skill. Its slow-release nitrogen encourages overall growth without preventing flowering and fruit production that can occur when too much nitrogen is applied.”

Reduce weed problems and increase the health and vigor of your lawn by properly mowing, watering and fertilizing. “Mow high to encourage deep roots that are more pest- and drought-resistant,” Myers suggests. “Taller grass is better able to fend off weeds.” Mow often and leave the short clippings on the lawn to add nutrients, organic matter and moisture to the soil. Use a sharp blade for quicker recovery and a better-looking lawn.

Water thoroughly but less frequently to encourage deep roots. Water your lawn early in the morning to minimize water loss. If you allow your lawn to go dormant during drought, leave it dormant until temperatures cool, rains return and nature brings it back to life.

Use a low-nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer for your spring feeding. An organic nitrogen type fertilizer will not promote lush growth that is more susceptible to disease and requires more mowing. Plus if you stop watering or your community institutes a watering ban, it won’t damage the lawn. In fact, the fertilizer will stay in the soil until the weather improves and your lawn starts to grow.

Improve the health of trees and shrubs with proper watering and mulch. Water new plantings whenever the top few inches of soil are dry. Don’t forget about established plants. These need a helping hand during extended periods of drought. Always water thoroughly to encourage deep drought-resistant roots.

Maintain a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch around trees and shrubs. Woodchips, shredded bark and other organic materials help conserve moisture, suppress weeds and improve the soil as they decompose. Keep mulch away from the trunk of trees and crowns of other plants to reduce the risk of disease.

Myers suggests you create or expand existing mulch rings without the use of chemicals.  She says it’s simple, “Just edge the mulch bed, cut the existing grass short, spread a layer of newspaper or cardboard over the area and cover with woodchips or shredded bark.  The paper provides an extra weed barrier and eventually breaks down adding organic matter to the soil.”

Use an all-purpose fertilizer to give existing trees, shrubs and perennials a nutrient boost.  A low-nitrogen, slow-release formula encourages moderate growth that needs less pruning and is less susceptible to certain pests.

And don’t forget to take a moment to enjoy the beauty of spring while preparing your landscape for the season ahead.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

I often shop online because I live in a tiny community that does not always have all the plants that I would like to try.  Most of the online catalogs give a great guarantee.  If the plant doesn’t grow that you have ordered they will replace it for free.  I have taken them up on that and they have been very obliging about sending replacements.  One of my favorite flowers is flax and I have not had much luck with them and so they sent me more.  Hopefully this year will be the year that they will grow as long as all this rain doesn’t kill them.  It’s funny how too much rain is bad for the garden and not enough is bad too.

I looked out the window and I see that the rain is getting a little slushy.    My three boys are hoping for it to start snowing rather than all this rain, because then school will get canceled and they can go play in the snow.  I guess if that happens, I will go online and shop for plants for my garden.

I have decided to go shopping.  That means shopping from all my great catalogs.  I got a catalog from springhill nursery that gave 50 percent off any order no matter how big or small.  Of course I thought  I would start out small, but I am spending around 50 dollars and getting about 15 plants so the deal is pretty good if they all grow.  As you know from my previous blog, I try to save money on gardening and everything else, so I try to never pay full price. Springhill also claims a  100% guarantee, so we shall see.  I have decided to go with a red garden.  I enjoy the reds I have in my garden already and want to expand on them.  some of my favorites are : bee balm, carnations and penstemon.

These ideas or not ranked in money saved but are random ideas that I do or wish I did to save money.

Your phone bill is a place to save money.  If you have a cell phone, then you don’t need long distance on your home phone, if you even need a home phone at all.  Make sure you have the right cell plan to meet your needs.  It doesn’t usually cost to down grade or up grade so make sure that you are aware of all the different plans and pay the least for your needs.  I use tracfone, because I use my cell only for emergencies.  I also use a calling card on my home phone which is 2.9 cents a minute for long distance.  The code and number are programmed into my phone for ease of use, and I save a minimum of $25 a month.

Make sure you pay your bills on time and balance your finances.  Overdrafts and late payments are a huge drain on your finances.  This is of course a no-brainer.

Make a list of things that you need to buy or have a master list with you when you go shopping.  This way you are more focused and can avoid the enticements of prepackaged foods.   The more you can cook things from scratch, the more you will save.  This leads to the next important money saver.

Pack a lunch to work or school.  Pack your own drink also.  Buy some flavored drink mixes and use those to cut down on costs of bottled or vended drinks.

Here is one that saves money for me with four boys in our home.  Use single ply toilet paper.  Kids use the same whether it is two ply or one ply.

My mother taught me to always un-wrap bars of soap when I bring them home from the store and put them in my clothes drawers.  They do two things.  They make your sweaters and t-shirts smell nice and they harden, so that they last longer in the shower.

One of the most important ways to save money is to avoid impulse buying.  This is one of my hardest things to overcome.  When I see a nice pair of shoes or a plant that would be perfect; I try to force myself to wait and come back at a later date and buy it.  The worst buys I have ever made, were when I bought something on a whim or because a salesman talked me into it. 

Avoid buying new when you can buy used.  This works for cars and books and many other items. 

Make sure you are paying the least possible for home, life and car insurance.  It is worth the time you spend to find a better price.  I saved so much by switching.  The company you are with now might not be the cheapest in the year to come.  You can also increase your deductible to save a lot each year.

Unplug appliances not in use.  They say it can save a lot of money over a year’s time.

Some other things to help lower your utility bill are lower your thermostat in your house and on the water heater.  Make sure you have insulation in your roof.  Your dryer uses a lot of electricity.  Hang things to dry when possible.  Water your lawn deeply once or twice a week instead of daily or every other day.

Do small home repairs yourself.

My favorite is: share your garden with those around and get starts or divisions from them too.  My favorite flowers in my garden have come from my mother’s garden.  They have sentimental value.  Ask your husband for a plant instead of flowers next valentines day or mother’s day.

  I always cover up a part of my garden with a tarp so that it won’t be as wet as the rest of the garden during the rainy time.  I then have a chance to go and work the soil and plant radishes, and peas and lettuce at the end of February. 

I grew up in the Colorado, where spring didn’t come until May.  We never could plant anything until May and then we had to have it covered because frost would come, sometimes even in June.  Now that I am in the Sierra Nevada foothills, I love to plant early and even bring tomatoes to my parents when I visit them in June.

I did put in three fruit trees four years ago, and this year I am hoping a late frost won’t kill everything off like it did last year.   All of a sudden it has turned back into Winter.  It rained for five days straight, and there is ice on the roads and in my koi pond.  Oh well, I can still dream and plan, I just don’t feel like going out there in the cold weather.

You don’t have to be a wildlife expert to know that after generations of dwelling in close proximity to humans, modern deer aren’t afraid of us anymore. What’s more, they no longer fear many of the traditional repellents some homeowners still use to protect shrubs, trees and landscaping.  So when cool weather comes along and the natural landscape dies, deer have to start foraging for food sources. And they aren’t afraid to walk right into your yard and help themselves to your well-watered, well-established evergreens.

Even just a few deer can cause significant damage to your landscaping. “A single whitetail deer can consume, on average, 8 to 12 pounds of foliage a day,” says James Messina of Messina Wildlife Management. “In many areas of the country, deer overpopulation is a serious problem. With nowhere to go and not much left to eat in the dead of winter, deer can wreak havoc on shrubs, trees and gardens, and destroy new buds and leaves before they have a chance to grow, ruining your prospects for any spring growth.”

Hungry and bold, deer move into residential areas in the winter, and the damage they do in the cold weather will affect your landscape’s health next spring. Traditional animal repellents are also less effective than they were decades ago, Messina notes.

“That’s because those repellents rely on a bad smell — like the stench of a rotting carcass — to fool animals into thinking a predator’s kill is in the area and the predator may be returning for it,” he says. “But the number of predators has actually declined, and deer know it. They’re less afraid of predators, so relying on scare tactics has a greater tendency to fail over time.”

Some wildlife has also built up a resistance to chemical deterrents. Plus, increasingly eco-conscious homeowners prefer not to put potentially harmful chemicals into the environment. Other more lethal alternatives are not only inhumane but illegal in most parts of the country.

More homeowners are turning to organic alternatives, like Deer Stopper, a repellent formulated from plant extracts. This organic option works because it confronts deer by using their natural repulsion to certain plant smells and tastes rather than relying on fear.

“We know that deer will eat over 500 different types of plants,” Messina says. “Normally, they’re quite discriminating. But in fall and winter, when food is harder to find, they become less picky and much more of a threat to suburban landscapes. Still, like many wild animals, deer rely on taste and smell to judge if a food may be harmful to them. If your backyard foliage tastes or smells unpleasant to them, one bite and they’ll move on.”

An effective taste deterrent, Deer Stopper is 100 percent organic and completely safe for use on all types of plants — from vegetables to trees, flowers to shrubs. The Organic Materials Review Institute lists it as approved for use by organic growers. The smell- and taste-based technology also eliminates the need for a foul odor, so Deer Stopper actually smells good to humans. Lightly mist vegetation once a month, even during the cold and snowy winter to keep deer away all season long. To learn more, or to find retail locations, visit www.messinawildlife.com.

“In the early 1900s, there were probably only about half a million deer spread out over the country,” Messina says. “Today, there are more than 15 million. Deer, it turns out, adapt quite well to life in suburbia. Keeping them away from residential and commercial landscaping can help everyone — deer and homeowners —  co-exist more happily together.”

Courtesy of ARAcontent

“People want shrubs and plants that look great, are easy to grow, are good for the environment and perform well in their gardens,” says Susan McCoy, garden writer and trend spotter. “That’s just what the new products this spring promise to deliver.”

McCoy reveals a few of her favorite garden superstars for spring 2009 to help scratch that itch to get out in the garden after a long winter.

Let the Sun Shine
McCoy loves “Sunny Knock Out,” the newest addition to the Knock Out Rose (www.TheKnockOutRose.com) family. It lives up to the Knock Out reputation for blooming continuously with little to no effort, and is naturally resistant to rust, mildew, blackspot, Japanese beetles and rose midge, making it easy to avoid harsh chemicals. It is bright yellow, the latest trendy color, and has a mild, sweet fragrance. From Canada to the Gulf states, you can expect the same profusion of sunny blooms on this compact shrub that grows up to 4.5 feet tall, making it perfect to mix in flower beds, for mass plantings or as a specimen plant

Tropicals Sizzle in Your Garden
Add lots of color right up until fall’s first frost with the new Sun Parasol Crimson mandevilla. This easy tropical from Costa Farms (www.SunParasol.net) has huge crimson red, bell-shaped velvety blooms that cover the 12- to 15-foot vines, making it perfect for hanging baskets, containers, climbing up a trellis or in a landscape. Available in “Pretty” and “Giant” sizes, Sun Parasol Crimson comes in a 10-inch hanging basket or a 6-inch pot with or without a trellis. Either way, the saucer-sized blooms will add some tropical zest to your garden landscape, decks, patios and apartment balconies. Plant these beauties in six to eight hours of sun each day.

Pot up Some History
For instant garden style, McCoy loves the latest “designer” containers and accessories from Campania International (www.CampaniaInternational.com). The 2009 Chicago Collection reflects the city’s prairie style and art deco traditions with clean lines and minimal design. If you appreciate historical craftsmanship, the 18th century Colonial Williamsburg collection contains an array of garden containers, including cast-stone replicas of urns that blend a refined look with a contemporary feel. From window boxes to birdbaths, their accents will add an elegant touch inside or outside your home.

Grow ‘em Right
Start your containers off right with peat-free, organic potting soil. The Organic Mechanics (www.organicmechanicsoil.com) “Container Blend” is made of 100 percent organic materials from recycled agricultural waste products. With this rich potting mix, you’ll water less but your container plants will flower more and look greener. Plus the nutrient-rich product is reusable, a real cost benefit for gardeners. Perfect for all your containers, hanging baskets and window boxes, it is available this spring in Mid-Atlantic garden centers and Whole Foods stores.

Go Native, Go Local
Be a star in the garden this spring with American Beauties native plants (www.ABNativePlants.com), and the wildlife will thank you for providing food and shelter. Plus you’ll be making a contribution to the National Wildlife Federation Backyard Habitat program. But don’t get these natives confused with roadside “wild” flowers. These shrubs, trees, vines, grasses and perennials were hand-picked for their beauty, and their minimal need for fertilizer, water and pest control. The newest is “Iron Butterfly” Vernonia lettermannii, from Dr. Alan Armitage. This brilliant purple ironweed attracts butterflies in a wide range of soils and conditions.

Tickled Pink
This first-ever pink blueberry — “Pink Lemonade” — is a sweet new introduction from Briggs Nursery (www.BriggsNursery.com), and one of the most exciting new plants McCoy has seen in years. The pink blueberry bush provides delicious fruit rich in antioxidants plus four seasons of color — white flowers in spring, bright pink fruit in summer, great fall color and finally dusky auburn stems in winter. Growing about five feet around, this ornamental shrub looks great as a hedge border or stand-alone shrub with the added benefit of tasting great in cereal and pies, or to feed the wildlife.

Drowning With Love
Did you know that the No. 1 reason indoor plants die is people love them so much they over water them? That’s why McCoy loves the WaterStik — a no-brainer watering system that tells you when to water and when not to. Just insert the WaterStik into the container, and it blinks to tell you if it needs more water, needs you to stop watering or anything in between. For this and other state-of-the-art plant irrigation systems, visit: www.Waterstik.com.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

“It’s a resurgence of gardening for the greater good — for the earth and our wallets,” says Susan McCoy, trend spotter and president of the Garden Media Group (GMG). “The most exciting movement seems to be that gardening is popular again, particularly among younger homeowners,” she adds.

GMG’s gardening trends for 2009 reveal a resurgence in perennials, growing native plants, creating “blended” gardens using vegetables and herbs in flower beds, cultivating with best practices, planting to attract wildlife and going local.

“The urgent commitment to environmental sustainability and the basic desire to make our homes our havens is reflected in all gardening trends for 2009,” predicts McCoy.

What’s in: Eco-boosting

What’s out: Conspicuous consumption

One simple way to be an eco-booster is to create natural habitats for wildlife with native plants that attract birds, bees and butterflies. Look for eco-friendly plants like the line of native plants from American Beauties (www.ABNativeplants.com) or the Knock Out family of roses (www.TheKnockoutRose.com), which are drought- and disease-resistant, and require little care or chemicals. Go organic with peat-free soil from The Organic Mechanics Soil Company (www.OrganicMechanicSoil.com) that supports sustainable practices and feeds plants from the soil up.

What’s in: Grow-it-Yourself (GIY)

What’s out: Having someone do it all for you

Tranquil moments may be few but the recent rise in gardening reconnects us with nature, family and friends as we share our bounty. With the increase in demand for year-round fresh fruits and vegetables, local farmers markets are seeing an upsurge in business, community gardens have waiting lists, and plant swaps are on the rise.

What’s in: Blended gardens

What’s out: Segregated gardens

Plant mint and fragrant thyme varietals in between cracks of stone pathways and grow strawberries for a delightful edible groundcover around trees. Fruit-bearing shrubs and trees provide color, privacy and fruitful bounty mingling among veggies and perennials. Garden centers are reporting an increase in demand for fruit-bearing shrubs like blueberries and raspberries as ornamentals. Briggs Nursery (www.BriggsNursery.com) is introducing the first-ever pink blueberry, “Pink Lemonade.”

What’s in: Locavore

What’s out: Big carbon footprint

Buying local is all the rage. Gardeners are aware of their role as naturalists and conservationists, and are looking for native plants that thrive in their own backyards. “Native plant cultivars are selected to perform better in specific areas under local conditions,” says Steve Castorani, from American Beauties Native Plants. “When you select a plant that is native to the local area, it will thrive with little to no water, fertilizer or effort.”

What’s in: Water

What’s out: Water

For the first time, water is in and out. Whether bringing in fountains, endless waterfalls, or fish ponds, the soothing sounds of water can turn any backyard into a private oasis. Costa Farms (www.CostaFarms.com) offers plants that drink responsibly like succulents, cactus, yucca and ferns, which are easy, conserve water, and add sizzle to your landscape. The Knock Out family of roses, from bright red to sunny yellow, is drought-resistant.

“Water features such as fountains are showing up not only in the garden but on tabletops, and sometimes more than one in the garden,” says Jon Carloftis, a renowned garden designer. He likes the classic and contemporary options from Campania International (www.CampaniaInternational.com) to bring the sight and sound of water into gardens without a lot of fuss or maintenance.

What’s in: Outside inside

What’s out: Outside only  

From bean sprouts on kitchen countertops to green walls laden with herbs and micro-greens, plants are decorating spaces as “art- in-motion.” Tropical plants like bromeliads and orchids create instant beauty and give a boost of oxygen and clean the air.

“It’s easy to expand your home’s boundaries and add indoor charm to your patio, deck and garden using great indoor plants like ferns and palms. And ornamentals continue to be fashionistas beautifying containers, landscapes, mixed or mass planted,” McCoy adds.

What’s in: Info lust

What’s out: Lack of knowledge

Lack of time and knowledge have been primary reasons people hesitate to garden. Not anymore. Novices and experienced gardeners hungry for inspiration, information, and instruction are packing master garden classes for instruction and gardening “how-to” tips. Gardeners are gobbling up information from friends, classes and workshops, local garden media, magazines, and the Internet and sharing their success stories with bloggers and friends

What’s in: Quick and simple

What’s out: Over-the-top and complicated

As time-starved consumers try to juggle busy schedules most seek quick and simple solutions to meet their gardening needs. Containers are no longer a trend but a garden staple in large and small spaces.

Select natural materials like cast stone and terra cotta containers and accessories that are perfect eco-friendly accents. “Big and bold is ‘in’ and square is the new round,” says Peter Cilio, creative director for Campania International.

What’s in: Global colors

What’s out: Safe colors

The 2009 color forecasters predict a funky mix of colors that reflect a jambalaya of world cultures. Today’s main color influencers are our global connectivity, cultural unity, and environmental responsibility.

“Colors are bold, crazy, exaggerated, and in-your-face, almost like pop-art, and reflect a playful spirit in the face of world events,” says Donna Dorian, former style editor of Garden Design Magazine.

Be uber-trendy with anything red this spring from the Carefree Spirit shrub rose and true red rhododendron “Trocadero” to tropical red Sun Parasol Crimson mandevilla.

What’s in: Worldly

What’s out: Cookie-cutter

Americans have embraced the world bazaar of vibrant colors, textures, sights and sounds. Asian, African, Indian, and Mid-Eastern influences are showing up in patterns, textures and colors.

“As we travel more, we tend to bring more of our memories home — creating escapist retreats,” says John Kinsella, brand director for terrain (www.terrainathome.com).  

For a complete look at the GMG 2009 Garden Trends, visit www.GardenMediaGroup.com or subscribe to www.GardenPlot.Blogspot.com.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

A beautiful lawn does not come without some effort. Depending upon what type of soil you have, the amount of effort will vary. For instance when raising trees and shrubs, sandy or a gravel base soil is great. Landscape plants like well drained soiled. A lawn on the other hand is different. Lawn grasses grow constantly throughout the growing season, and need an ample supply of both nutrients and water.

The most basic of lawn care tips includes regular watering and fertilization is required to keep a lawn beautiful. If you’re lucky enough to have a lawn that was originally planted in good rich topsoil, you won’t have to work near as hard as somebody like me, who has a lawn that is planted in sandy gravel. The soil at our house has little nutritional value, nor does it have the ability to retain any amount of moisture. By mid May my lawn starts drying out. It is very difficult for us to keep our lawn looking nice.

Lawns are one area where a little clay in the soil is a good thing. Of course standing water is not good, but having soil that has the ability to retain some moisture is helpful. If you happen to be installing a new lawn, here’s a news flash from my lawn care tips that will make all the difference in the world: Add lots of organic matter before you install your new lawn if you have sand or gravel type soil. The easiest way to do this is to find some good rich topsoil and spread that over your existing soil.

Because most lawn grasses grow so vigorously, they need additional amounts of nutrients added in order to stay looking nice. Just use one of the four step programs offered by the fertilizer companies. Most of these programs also include weed control along with the fertilizer. Here in the north we basically have two concerns with weeds in our lawns.

Crabgrass can be a problem, and I do consider it a weed. In order to control crabgrass you must use a pre-emergent herbicide that will prevent the crabgrass seeds from germinating. In order for this herbicide to be effective you must apply it early in the spring while the soil temperature is still below 45° F.

Broadleaf weeds such as Dandelions are another problem, although fairly easy to control with a broadleaf weed control. Most broadleaf herbicides are mixed in with the fertilizers, and must be applied when the grass and weeds are damp. The wet foliage will cause the herbicide to stick to the weed, giving the herbicide time to be absorbed by the weed. Once absorbed the herbicide translocates through the weed plant and kills it completely.

These types of herbicides are considered “selective” since they seem to know the difference between a grass plant and a weed. That’s why they only kill the broadleaf weeds and not the grass itself. However, many people have different kinds of thick bladed grass in their lawn such as quack grass. Quack grass is on the ugly side, and can really detract from a lawn. The problem is, it is still in the grass family, and “selective” herbicides leave it alone because it is a card carrying member of the grass family.

So what’s a person to do?

In order to get rid of these thick bladed grasses you must use a “non-selective” herbicide, and “non-selective” herbicides don’t care who they kill. Well, at least that’s true in the plant kingdom. When you use a “non-selective” herbicide you must understand that everything that you spray is going to die, but it really is the only effective way to rid your lawn of undesirable thick bladed grasses. This type of treatment is effective if you have isolated areas that contain wide bladed grasses. You’ll have to spray all the grass in the area, then reseed with good quality grass seed.

My herbicide of choice for this type of spraying is RoundUp®. It is believed that RoundUp® does not have any residual effect, which means that it does not linger in the soil. That means that the new grass seed or the young grass plants will not be affected by the herbicide. Being a non-selective herbicide you must be careful when spraying, making sure that the spray does not drift onto other plants or lawn areas that you do not want to kill.

To keep the spray from drifting, adjust the nozzle so that the spray pattern is narrow with larger spray droplets. You do not want a fine atomized spray if there is danger of spray drift. It also helps to keep the pressure in the sprayer as low as possible. Pump the sprayer a minimum number of times, to keep the pressure low. You just want enough pressure to deliver the spray, but not atomize it to the point that it can be easily carried by the wind. Buy a sprayer just for herbicides and mark it as such. You never want to spray plants with a sprayer that has been used for herbicides.

Once you have sprayed the area you want to kill, wait three days before doing anything else. After a period of three days the grasses that you sprayed may not look any different, but if they have been properly sprayed, they will die. It takes three days for the herbicide to translocate throughout the entire plant, then the plants will die. So even though the weeds and grass plants look fine, you can start digging and chopping and not worry about them growing back. If you start digging and chopping before the three day period you will interrupt the herbicide, and the weeds and grass you were trying to kill may come back.

If you happen to be installing a new lawn, make sure you spray all the weeds and thick bladed grasses before you start. Once you have the lawn installed, you sure don’t want to go through all the trouble of killing areas of your lawn and reseeding. If you make sure that all of these undesirables have been killed before you start, you’ll be way ahead of the game.

When selecting grass seed, you should always use a blend that is recommended for your area. Here in the north a popular blend contains fine bladed perennial rye grass, fescue, and blue grass. Keep in mind that it takes blue grass seeds 28 days to germinate, while most perennial rye grasses germinate in 5 or 6 days, so you never want to plant a lawn that is 100% Kentucky blue grass. Before the blue grass seeds have a chance to germinate, every kind of weed imaginable will already be actively growing in your lawn.

With a blend, the faster germinating grasses come up quickly, and act as a nurse crop for the slower germinating seeds. Having a blend also gives you some protection in case some new pest comes along that attacks certain types of grasses.

People often ask if they have to have their lawn hydro-seeded in order for it to be nice. The answer is no. Hydro-seed is not some kind of magic formula. It is nothing more than a fancy way to apply grass seed. A hydro-seeder is just a machine that mixes water, grass seed, fertilizer and mulch into a slurry that is sprayed onto your lawn. The ingredients are exactly the same that you would use if you seed by hand, with the exception of the mulch. And contrary to popular belief, hydro-mulch is no better than good old fashioned straw. In my opinion straw is a much, much better mulch. The primary advantage to hydro-seed is that the grass seed is thoroughly soaked before it is applied, which assures germination. That’s a huge advantage if you’re seeding along a freeway where it is not practical to wet the seed after it has been applied. At your house, it really doesn’t mean much. Hand seeding works just fine.

With either method, you still have to water just as much once the seeding is done. Many people are led to believe that hydro-seed doesn’t have to be watered as much as hand seed. This is a huge misconception. If you fail to water hydro-seed once it is applied, it will still germinate and little tiny grass plants will appear. But just a few hours without water on a hot day, and those little tiny grass plants will wither and die. This is a big problem because once the seed has germinated, it is spent. All the water in the world will not make that spent seed produce another grass plant.

Hydro-seed has its benefits, but for the residential lawn it’s not all that important. Why do I claim that straw is a better mulch than hydro-mulch? Think about how the hydro-mulch is applied. It is mixed with the seed, fertilizer and water as a slurry, and sprayed on the lawn. The mulch has not been applied over top of the seed which is how mulch is supposed to be applied, it is all mixed together. Some of the seeds are under the mulch, and some of the seeds are on top of the mulch. Mulch can’t do much good when the seeds are resting up on top of it. They might as well be sun bathing!

Now think about the process of hand seeding. The seed is spread on the soil, then you should take a push broom and drag it backwards over top of the seeded area. This applies a very thin layer of soil over most of the seeds. Then you spread the straw over top of the soil. The pieces of straw are scattered in all directions, with many of them criss-crossing each other.

Remember the movie, “Honey I Shrunk the Kids”? The part where they are walking through the lawn and the blades of grass are huge compared to them? This is what it’s like to be a grass seed under a mulch of straw. Those little tiny grass seeds are lost under the straw, and that’s exactly what you want to protect them from the intense rays of the sun.

As the sun works its way across the sky the grass seeds actually receive filtered sunlight. Enough sun to warm the seeds so they grow, but also enough shade to protect the tender young grass plants. As the grass plants grow, they also raise the mulch with them to a degree, providing additional shade for the seeds that haven’t germinated yet. The shade that straw mulch provides also helps to retain the moisture around the seeds. Grass seeds will never get this kind of protection from hydro-mulch.

Another trait of hydro-seed is that as the slurry dries, it becomes a blanket over the lawn. In the event of a heavy rainfall, running water tends to get under this blanket and carry it away, leaving big areas with no seed at all. They make a glue that you can actually add to the hydro-seed mix, but my experience has shown that the glue will hold the hydro-seed in place a little longer, but when it does wash out much larger areas wash because they are glued together.

With hand seeding, each seed is independent, and they fall between the nooks and crannies of the soil. In the event of heavy rain, the running water must be severe enough to wash the soil away before the seeds can be moved. I’ve installed hundreds of lawns using both techniques, for the difference in cost I’ll take the hand seeded lawn any day.

About the Author: Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.
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